Uzbekistan Embroidery Study
Completed in April 2003 by Patricia Fischer
This embroidery study was undertaken for the Exhibit Dress and Contemporary Fashion in order to illustrate the process of using aspects of ethnic dress as an inspiration for contemporary design.
The production goal in using design elements from ethnic dress is to simplify the original design so that it is possible to put the design into commercial production while retaining enough of the original stylistic elements so that the origins of the resulting product are identifiable as being "ethnic".
In this case elements of embroidery designs from a pair of Uzbekistan robes were adapted for use on an evening suit.
The original embroidery was heavily hand worked in satin stitch, couching, stem stitch and sequins.
The design challenge is to achieve the technical transition from hand embroidery to machine embroidery. Machine embroidery requires a lighter approach to the laying down of stitches, so stitch density and placement within each design area must be carefully considered in the design process. The needed reduction in stitch density is partly due to the fragile nature of the embroidery thread and the tension machine embroidery places on the ground fabric.
In keeping with the original "ethnic" style a solid color ground fabric ( navy, 100% wool crepe) and gold thread were chosen. Embroidery design elements from the original garments were scanned into the computer and then reworked to choose, delete, or strengthen specific elements of each original chosen element. Each of the resulting new designs was then digitized for the embroidery machine using the Artista software embroidery program. The resulting designs; two arabesque leaves, several scrolls, a scroll heart, and a tulip, were then manipulated into new design combinations and combination placement onto garment pieces was decided.
Decisions regarding design placement on the exhibit garments, a jacket and sleeveless dress, where in part influenced by design placement on the original garments. The original garments featured a dense all over design placement this is an excellent approach on a loose fitting outer robe or vest intended for display. As the contemporary garments feature a more close to the body fit, for ease of wearing the embroidery design areas were concentrated at the back shoulder area and the hemline area.
The process of reducing the stitch density in the machine embroidery resulted in the inclusion of an additional technique, appliqué. As a feature of the leaf elements appliqué was not a technique present in the original embroidery. In the contemporary garment this technique required that two fabric layers, the first a gold lame covered by a high luster navy polyester organza be outlined stitched to the fabric prior to the finishing satin stitch details of the leaf design. The resulting shadow like fill mimicked the satin stitched leaves in the original garments.
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