Polynesia
Ethnic Textile:
Black and tan tablecloth of bark known as tapa
Date: 1968
Courtesy of Deborah Vandermar
Although tapa cloth production has mostly died out, it was once a very important textile product in tropical areas around the world. Tapa is still made in Fiji by
stripping the bark from such trees as the paper mulberry. The inner bast is separated from the outer bark, soaked and beaten with wooded beaters on wooden anvils, stretched, dried, and combined into bigger pieces. Fijians are unique in Polynesia in decorating their tapa with stencils instead of wood black print or hand painting. Tapa was once used extensively for clothing and domestic use but has been replaced by machine woven textiles for daily use. It is still used in weddings and other ceremonies.
Contemporary Garment:
Brown and white colored cotton sundress and tote
Date: Unknown
Donor: Anonymous
This sundress was probably made in a local Hawaiian sewing workshop under contract to the Royal Hawaiian Manufacturing Company for sale to Royal Hawaiian Hotel tourists. Like other Polynesian cultures, Hawaiians wore simple wrap clothing of tapa (kapa) prior to western contact. Tapa use in Hawaii nearly died out by early 1900s when Hawaii began importing tapa from Fiji and Tonga for use in hula and other performances. Tonga and Fiji have had trade and cultural exchange for centuries. The silk screen print may have been inspired by the bold black, white and brown designees found in Fijian tapa. Compare the same "fringe" like lines around the tapa and the hem of the dress. The white H-like shape in the border and the big squares can be found in Fijian tapa in other collections. The intentionally uneven edges and splashes of ink give the dress the handmade look of the Fijian tourist tapa.
The tote bag with tapa design comes from Tonga. The design is silk screened on cotton canvas. The design elements like the X-shape, the checker board, and the use of bold letters to spell the name of a person or place on this bag resembles Fijian tapa.