Indonesia
Ethnic Garment:
Wrap skirt (kain) of super fine cotton percale
Date: 1969
Courtesy of Christopher Feise
This traditional garment is known as a kain panjang ("long cloth"), and they often are three meters long, worn wrapped around the body. It is tightly wrapped around the wait, folded into fine pleats with the end piece falling in straight pleats down the front. BOth men and women wear the kain panjang. To achieve the complex pattern on this woman's kain, the surface designed involved a highly complicated batik wax resist with two kinds of design motifs. One pattern (broken knives) is common to central Java; the floral designs are common to the north side of Java where there was significant Dutch influence. The kain was designed by a noted batik artist from the city of Yogyjakarta, where batiks are produced for the Sultan's palace.
Ethnic Garment:
Orange cotton voile blouse (kebaya)
Date: 1970s
Donor: Anonymous
Worn on the islands of Java and Bali, the kebaya is traditionally made in sheer cool fabrics like this fine cotton voile, and is generally embroidered with bright detailing in the form of flower motifs. The kebaya has intricately detained cutwork around the placket and the peplum and faggoting down the princess seams and around the shoulders. Cut work is elaborate, with fabric removed between the
embroidered lines. Historically, the kebaya was loose, but in the twentieth century it became increasingly fitted using seams to contour the blouse to the body. It is worn over a sarong or kain and generally held together with one to three gold pins on Java or
a waist wrap on Bali.
Contemporary Garment:
Black one-piece shift of rayon challis
The garment was created out of a single length of fabric to simplify mass production. The floral motifs are rendered with textile paint rather than the traditional embroidery and edged with simple satin stitches. The dress was created in Indonesia for export to the U.S. It incorporates the traditional cut work.
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