India
Ethnic Garment:
Traditional multi-colored silk Indian sari ensemble
Date: 1970s
Courtesy of Judy Edmister
In burgundy, blue, green and gold silk. Cotton broadcloth slip worn under the blouse, choli silk shauntung close fitting top that intentionally bares the midriff. The silk used in the choli and sari include dobby and surface design weave. Eight yards of fabric is used in this sari draped national style. The cropped top with a visible design at the hem indicates that it may be from Northern India. While the blouse (choli) is constructed using stitching, the rest of the ensemble is draped. The sari consists of a nine yard piece of silk wrapped, tucked and draped around the body. The main area of the sari is decorated on three sides by rows of flowering plants, figurative images or abstract symbols. Two borders define the edge of the length of the sari; the other border makes the end piece a more visible, broader and more complex version of the other two borders. This end piece is draped over the shoulder and left to hang over the back or front. This portion is termed the pallav. The sari may seem to be unsecured. It is, in fact, supported by a cotton petticoat, in which the top edges of the pleats are tucked into the waistband of the petticoat lessening the risk of the sari coming undone.
Contemporary Garment:
Orange and gold cropped top and skirt
Date: Unknown
Donor: Anonymous
Using contemporary rayon Jacquard sari fabrics with metallic gold yarns, student designer Adrian Tin turned traditionally draped fabrics into contemporary cut and sewn garments. The skirt emulates the choli but is sleeveless. This design was intended for western formal use such as a high school prom. The garment was constructed sari fabric, but it has been modernized in many ways. The major difference between the two garments is the lack of the pallav in the modern version. The designer used soft pleats sewn into a waistband to echo the look of the traditional drape.
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