China
Ethnic Garment:
Red silk damask robe ao with embroidered silk bands
Date: 1895-1911
Donor: Frances D'Auteuil
This woman's ao from the late Qing Dynasty derives horseback riding. The ao was used as semi-formal dress typically worn over a skirt called a gun. While the design lines are simple unstructured T-shaped silhouette, the surface design is elaborate. The decorative ribbon trims were embroidered in panels and then appliqued onto the garment. The Manchu also introduced piping to reinforce fabric edges, and the characteristic diagonal from opening on the right side fastens with frog closures.
Ethnic Garment:
Teal silk brocade qi pao or cheung sam
Date: 1950s
Donor: Isabel Miller
As China began westernization in the early 20th century, the ao evolved into the qi pao (commonly known by Cantonese term, cheung sam). Characteristic features are the standing Mandarin collar, side slits, and a right hand diagonal front opening with frog closures. Piping along seam edges was used both to strengthen the seams and to provide detail. The cheung sam followed western fashion in terms of becoming ever more fitted to the body. The garment close fit was achieved through many darts and shaped seams.
Contemporary Garment:
Black bias cut polyester organza dress
Date: 2002
Courtesy of Dr. Linda Arthur
This design manufactured by Jessica Howard and retailed by JC Penney shows cheung sam influences. The bias cut allows the close fit seen in the traditional cheung sam, without as many construction details. Side slits, Mandarin collar and a faux diagonal opening with covered buttons imitate the traditional garment. Darts, frogs, and piping were eliminated from the contemporary version of the cheung sam.
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