Africa
Ethnic Garments:
Black and white Bogolanfini (mud cloth)
Date: 1970s
Courtesy of Judy Edmister
This three-piece man's outfit is traditional for the Mali of Western Africa. The upper body cover is left open on the side in traditional African style to facilitate ventilation. The wrapped lower body covering is made of seven strips of hand woven cloth woven by men on a double heddle loom. The skullcap is traditional in design and form.
The production of mud cloth starts with plain white cotton cloth strip-woven by men. The narrow strips are then sewn together. The fabric is then soaked in mordant-bearing mulch leaves. The mordant (tannin) soaks in to the fabric that takes on an even yellow color. The mud dye process is complex and time consuming. After fermenting the dye in a covered pot for about a year over to turn the dye black, iron oxide in the mud reacts with the tannic acid from the mulch to produce a colorfast dye. The resulting pattern is painted around the light colored or white design motif.
Contemporary Garments:
Toast brown and black three-piece rayon suit
Date: 1999
Courtesy of Dr. Linda Arthur
This design was manufactured by Mulatta and sold by Simply Southwest. The print shows inspiration from mud cloth with decorative insertions of heavily textured fabrics ranging from monk's cloth, mailmo pieces, and bias tape with cowrie shell trim. The jacket is a swing coat with wide neck band and is paired with a shell top with black bands. The skirt is typical a-line form with pieced detail to imitate typical wrapped shirt effect.
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