10 Teaching Methods

10.1 Resources

10.1.2 Textile & Apparel Resources

Rabolt, N.J. (1990). Computer applications in textiles and clothing. (ACPTC Special Publication #2). Monument, CO: Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing, 83 pages, $20.00. Available from ITAA, PO Box 1360, Monument, CO 80132.

Reviewed by M. JoKallal, University of Delaware

The second in a series of special publications coordinated by ACPTC/ITAA, Computer Applications in Textiles & Clothing, provides current information regarding computer use in university textiles and clothing programs. Because the publication shares course materials and information not available elsewhere, it provides instructors of computer-related courses with concepts relative to teaching apparel design and pre-production, merchandising, research methods, and history of costume, as well as those using electronic communication. General computer resources and instruction trends for textiles and clothing are discussed. A review of industry software applications for Macintosh-based systems is also included. Additional features include a directory of software and listings of computer-related Clothing and Textiles Research Journal articles from 1987 through 1990. The software directory includes resources for the software discussed in both the preface and the articles.
The publication is useful because it furnishes readers with a single document directed toward computer use in textiles and clothing. Other reports of academic applications are scattered throughout the literature. However, because content is based on articles submitted, the publication imparts a slanted view of actual academic use. Articles related to instruction focus primarily on applications using affordable non-industry software and hardware. Rabolt balances this perspective in the preface as she reviews overall academic use in textiles and clothing programs.
Articles describing computer-related course development dominate the publication, this illustrating some of the efforts of faculty to prepare undergraduates for positions in industry. Faculty planning to teach, or already teaching, similar courses may find the authors' planned exercises and tutorials using vendor-developed or user-modified software, CAI, statistical, spreadsheet, communications, and visual authoring systems helpful. Specific applications encompass apparel designing and drawing/painting, textile designing, patternmaking, designing for special needs, inputting slopers, and altering patterns. Merchandising applications relative to merchandising mathematics, assortment planning, and store layout or fixture planning are included. Other articles feature instructional applications related to the history of twentieth century costume, fashion trend analysis, and electronic communications. These applications are dominated by AutoCAD, third party AutoCAD, and Macintosh draw/paint applications; only one industry system application is mentioned. The technicality of some articles makes them useful specifically to individuals using the same systems.
Computer Applications in Textile & Clothing provides both academic and industry readers with examples of some of the methods used to train future industry employees. Because approximately half of the articles apply to apparel design/per-production and about twenty percent relate to merchandising, readers may assume that most curricular efforts are being made in these areas. Although readers are left to determine individually whether the curricular activities described actually meet industry needs, they do illustrate the evolution of computer-related instruction and the resourcefulness of the authors in resolving limited budgets. With these qualifying thoughts in mind, the publication remains essential reading for readers in academic and industry settings.

Hutton, S.S. (Ed.). The Clothing and Textile Arts Index. Monument, CO: Sandra S. Hutton. ISBN 0887-2937. 1987: 141 pages, $75.00; 1986: 102 pages, $75.00; 1985: 98 pages, $75.00; 1980-1984: 271 pages, $225.00; 1970-1979: 139 pages, $150.00.

By Rachel Pannabecker, Kauffman Museum, N. Newton, KS

The Guide to Reference Books (Sheehy, 1986) confirms the absence of indexes to periodical literature on clothing and textiles. The Clothing and Textile Arts Index (CTAI), edited by Sandra S. Hutton, is filling this void. Five volumes covering 17, 904 citations facilitate access to articles on the behavioral, historic, and artistic aspects of clothing and textiles published in English from 1970 to 1987.
CTAI has cited nearly 2,000 periodical titles ranging from scholarly journals with limited circulation (ASHRAE Transactions; Dress) to popular, mass magazines (People, Business Week). Bibliographies, clothing and textiles-related journals, and other indexes (e.g., Art Index) provide an ever-expanding foundation for CTAI.
Recent CTAI volumes include citations of articles published in a given year plus earlier articles located since the publication of previous volumes. Thus, a first time CTAI user should be aware that a comprehensive search for publications from a given year will require checking subsequent volumes.
The 1987 volume of CTAI is divided into 16 subject headings, which are familiar to ACPTC members (such as "Functional Clothing"). Broad subject headings are also used in other indexes to organize diverse subject matter (see America: History and Life). However, they are cumbersome for a person whose research crosses subject matter lines. Some subjects, such as "Textile Science", are intentionally limited to articles in publications not generally found in other indexes.
Citations are further classified by key terms, which are listed in the front of each volume. The addition of key terms such as "Entrepreneurship" reflects trends in research, although terms such as "Attire-hip/straight" are retained. The use of hyphenated terms (e.g., "Europe-British Isles") means that users must spend some time learning the CTAI nomenclature. However, the 1987 change from inverted words to a more direct style (e.g., "Garment fitting" to "Fitting garments") simplifies the task.
Inevitably key terms vary in their ability to zero in on the focus of an article. There are 12 sub-divisions for "Uniforms" (such as "Uniforms-police") to orient the researcher. In contrast, "19th century" is an accurate but less discriminatory term. Articles are individually indexed by the editor and vary in the number of key terms assigned. While the editor-assigned key term system may lack the comprehensiveness of the every word system found in the Social Science Citation Index, the result is a more manageable volume.
CTAI maintains the standard for accuracy of other indexes yet the sheer volume of reference information inevitably leads to some errors ("Pomanesque" art in 1987, p.22). The change in type style in the 1986 and the addition of the author index in 1987 are two
user-friendly improvements. Eliminating the few remaining abbreviations would be helpful. The binding is durable but may require hardcover binding to sustain long-term use.
CTAI is a worthy, ambitious venture that is an indispensable reference. By facilitating access to periodical literature, Sandra Hutton has made a unique contribution to research and teaching about textiles and clothing.

Sheehy, E.P. (1986). Guide to Reference Books (10th edition). Chicago: American Library Association.

Hutton, S., & Hutton, R. (1995). The Clothing and Textiles Arts CD-ROM (Version 2.0). Monument, CO: HuTech. Main data base $395 US, yearly updates $195 US.

Reviewed by Nelma Fetterman, University of Manitoba

Scholars in many fields of study have been intrigued by the knowledge that can be gained by analyzing the remnants of archaeological textiles, structures of fabrics, as well as reasons for acquiring and using items of apparel and methods of enhancing human endeavors through effective design of textile products. Reports of these inquiries have appeared in many journals. Searches for this literature has required access to many indexing and abstracting services. Now we can have computerized access to a comprehensive collection of 32,000 items published between 1970 and 1993 in over 2500 serial titles and monographs.
As the title implies, contents of the Clothing and Textiles Arts CD-ROM (Version 2.0) focus more on the arts than the sciences. The textile artist, especially the weaver, will appreciate easy access to times in such journals as Handwoven, Shuttle, Spindle, and Dyepot and Weavers. Costume and textile historians will identify relevant items from Costume, Textile History, and Military Collector and Historian. ITAA members will be guided to the specific newsletters, proceedings, and special publications for items related to topic interest. Items from popular literature including Newsweek, National Geographic, Vogue, and The New Yorker supplement articles from scholarly journals and professional publications.
This comprehensive database is a great time saver. It contains many citations for those single clothing and textile articles appearing in one issue of a journal during the 24-year coverage. It also enables the scholar to identify a specific article in a particular issue of a journal that has published numerous articles in the 24-year time span. Whether the relevant articles, some from the 15 journals/serials that contribute one-third of the citations, or the 4% of the source titles that contribute two-thirds of the citations, or the other 2400 journals from which the remaining third have been obtained, the speed with which the citations can be identified is impressive.
Searches can be performed using key words, authors, journals or any combination of these. Use of Boolean logic plus the ability to limit search results by year enables the searcher to refine strategy for increased precision. On-screen explanations of function and arrow keys guide the user through this DOS-based program. Assessment of search results is facilitated by the editor's summary and indication of article type plus full bibliographical details. Relevant citations can be printed or downloaded as ASCII files for insertion into word-processing programs.
The three segments of the database can be browsed easily when developing a search. Beside each word, name, or journal title appears the number of occurrences in the complete database. These counts are very useful for avoiding storage of too many items at once. If over loaded due to insufficient computer memory, the system ceases to operate and one must begin anew.
The Clothing and Textile Arts CD-ROM is a long-awaited asset for any library that services clothing and textile scholars. Searches based upon meaningful, specific terms will provide more precise results than those obtained when searching general or other discipline-specific databases. Both scholars and post-secondary students will benefit by having access to this comprehensive database that will be updated annually in a cumulative manner.