05 Clothing Design/Fabrication/Illustration

05.2 Illustration

Sproles, G.B., and Burns, L.D. (1994). Changing appearances: Understanding dress in contemporary society. New York: Fairchild

Reviewed by Usha Chowdhary, University of Missouri

This is a textbook that reflects the convergence of social psychological aspects of clothing and human behavior. Our field as a whole revealed such a shift in the mid-eighties. However, none of the previous texts combine the two perspectives as well as Sproles and Burns. Using fashion both as a product and as a process allows this integration.
Pedagogically, the authors have done a good job of outlining objectives and presenting the information in an organized manner. Notes, discussion questions, projects and suggested readings serve as useful tools for students and instructors alike. The instructor's guide is a good addendum for use by new entrants or those in transition. The authors use changes in the adoption theory of Rogers as a way to reflect changing terminology over time. Time is used to represent theoretical and actual diffusion in fashion and to reflect acceptance of fad, fashion and classic fashion leadership categories. Stages of fashion marketing, diffusion in annual seasons, and simultaneous trends in diffusion offer meaningful pictorial images of understanding fashion as a process from various perspectives at both micro and macro levels. Repeated use of some theories in different contexts is a good example of instilling comprehensive understanding through reinforcement techniques. The use of visuals is appropriate and effective.
The authors offer a clear distinction between fashion and clothing fashion. A good integration of historical, social, economic and psychological theories is evident throughout. Use of cultural theories is ignored. In chapter 9, the section on the meaning of fashion symbols is presented very clearly and succinctly. In chapter 11, 1960's and 1970's data are presented. A comparison with more recent data would have strengthened the idea of using this information in the 90's and beyond. In spite of the timeliness issue, a variety of formats presented in this chapter are rich in content and have the potential to be updated by using them as instruments for class assignments or research updates. In my opinion, chapter 11 offers structure to the fluidity of information presented in the preceding chapters while explaining various theories and processes of fashion at micro and macro levels. The information is grouped to offer organization and provides depth at the same time for the users in various settings.
Just like chapter 1 where the authors present a distinction between fashion and clothing fashion, they offer information with regard to both general principles and fashion specific principles of forecasting fashion in chapter 12. In an information society, a well-informed individual has better sense of anticipation than an ill-informed individual. Fashion forecasting is no exception to this rule.
To summarize, Changing Appearances: Understanding Dress in Contemporary Society is a needed book for a first or second course in social psychological aspects of clothing or consumer behavior and clothing. The information is well organized and clearly presented. Updated data in some chapters would yield more time-appropriate information than in its current form. Theories are explained in a manner that they can be easily understood by undergraduate students. Appropriate clothing and appearance related examples further add to the richness of interpretive analysis and application of theories to the world of clothing fashions.